Nick Beardshaw’s debut restaurant has arrived
After working with Tom Kerridge for 14 years, and a winning turn on Great British Menu in 2023, Nick Beardshaw has struck out on his own with Starling in his hometown of Esher. He’s got a great corner site on the main drag, with lots of light coming through the expansive windows, brightening up the 40-cover space. The set-up is informal but elegant; the open kitchen looks out onto a room awash with royal blue and cream touches and hammered metal starling-shaped lampshades.
Eat This
The vibe may be relaxed but there’s some proper cookery happening in the kitchen. Snacks like spongy truffle cheese crumpets blanketed in 36-month aged parmesan showcase Beardshaw’s ability to blend indulgence with finesse from the get-go.
Two Great British Menu dishes appear on the Starling menu, the first being ‘A Moon Shaped Pool’, inspired by the artwork for the Radiohead album of the same name. It’s a plump scallop in a light but very drinkable Thai green curry sauce, livened with salty samphire and marinated cucumbers. It’s easy to see why that combo, plus some theatrical presentation, was a winner on the show.
Dishes of pressed game terrine studded with pistachios, and accompanied by celeriac remoulade and fig chutney, and Creedy Carver duck with a rich leg meat croustillant, tardivo offering bitterness and cherry ketchup adding sweetness, show that the team can deliver heartier flavours with the same skill.
The second GBM dish is ‘Balloon Girl’, a raspberry cheesecake balloon, a very thin layer of chocolate torte in the shape of a girl, served in the frame like the famous Banksy piece it’s inspired by, complete with rice paper shreds at the bottom. It’s a tried-and-tested flavour combination, delivered with style. The Xoco chocolate ice cream with Piedmont hazelnuts, olive oil and a honey madeleine is comparatively understated in terms of presentation but is big on flavour, with the olive oil and a sprinkling of salt lifting all the other ingredients to another level.
Drink This
There’s a concise but wide-ranging wine list with bottles from all over the world, including English sparkling wine from Sussex and Dorset. Drivers are also well looked after with decent soft options, including grown-up cordials and a fresh apple, elderflower and celery cooler.
Why Go
With quality cooking, great service and a relaxed atmosphere, Starling is everything you want a bistro to be. You can go in for a good steak and triple-cooked chips or you can have something a little more flourish and you’ll leave very happy. Esher locals are lucky to have this on their doorstep.
Key Information
Address | 3 High Street, Esher KT10 9RL
For more information | starlingbistro.co.uk
