Chris Denney is back behind the stoves
Following stints at 108 Garage and Fiend, Denney has swapped Notting Hill for Chelsea, and partnered up with restaurateurs George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev (who also have Lita, Wild Tavern, Belvedere and Goodman on their books) to open Fantômas on the King’s Road.
It’s billed as a neighbourhood restaurant but this is Chelsea so, of course, it feels a little more upscale than what you’d find on any old high street. There are white tablecloths and a very impressive wine cabinet but there are also textured concrete walls, fabric-covered lampshades and an expansive open kitchen to lend it a more dramatic look.
Eat This
True to form, Denney’s not confined by continent when it comes to the menu and he’s playing with Asian, European and South American influences. Somehow he manages to wrangle them all, making Fantômas feel eclectic, so dishes like sourdough focaccia with silky chicken liver pâté, melting chutoro with tosazu and black radish, and a sublime dashi broth laced with mustard oil don’t feel random.
The menu changes regularly but the Wax Tip pear salad with crema di pecorino, pecans and a gorgeous tangle of bitter dandelion is a must-order if it’s on there. The sea bass carpaccio with jalapeno and kalamansi is refreshing and bright, and a great counterpoint to the pear.
Salt-baked celeriac draped with mushrooms, hollandaise and black truffle reads like a showstopper, and though undoubtedly tasty, it’s outshone by the hispi cabbage, braised until tender and finished with crispy onions and tarama. The red mullet, served with a rich caponata and a langoustine sauce is another highlight.
There are some unusual sounding desserts, like the carrot yoghurt and the chocolate bar with Jerusalem artichoke, but we played it a little safe by opting for the crème caramel. Though it was properly wobbly and sweet, it was also quite heavily smoked and was giving a little too much bonfire for us. Learn from us and be bolder with the pudding choice – or go for the funky Blue Brain cheese course instead.
Drink This
There’s a pretty hefty wine list that stretches into four figures but the cocktail list is really something, featuring serves like the Quince & Vanilla Gimlet, the Pandan Punch, and the Cherry & Walnut Manhattan. If you want something a little fresher, the Peach & Tomato Margarita, a clear cocktail made with mezcal, tequila, tomato water, peach and celery, is a winner, but the smooth and savoury Miso Old Fashioned with bourbon, miso and toasted sesame, is perfect for a cold winter day.
Why Go
The Fantômas is a fictional French character who’s a master of disguise and it’s a fitting inspiration as this is one restaurant that defies categorisation. There’s some exciting cookery here and the place definitely has a vibe, so dig out your credit card (did we mention it’s in Chelsea?) and just enjoy.
Key Information
Address | 300 King’s Road, London SW3 5UH
For more information | fantomas.co.uk
