An ex-Brilliant Corners, Papi and Noble Fine Liquor team has come together to open Goodbye Horses
Goodbye Horses is a new restaurant/wine bar that’s just opened on the backstreets of De Beauvoir and is already looking like a brilliant addition to the area. Taking over an old pub, the team behind it are Alex Young, George de Vos, previously of Brilliant Corners, and head chef Jack Coggins, who we know very well from his time at Papi. It’s a lovely site with a 10-metre-long wooden bar in front of the kitchen, plenty of seating, and a wall stacked with 2,500 records.
Eat This
The menu is all killer no filler, with a short but very sharp lineup of three snacks, seven small plates, and two desserts (plus cheese). From the snacks menu, the cheese toastie is a must-order. If you think you’ve seen it all when it comes to cheese toasties, this one takes it up to another level, mainly from the genius addition of the homemade leek pickle. The blend of three tasty cheeses doesn’t hurt either. We will happily stop back in for this and a glass of pét-nat anytime.
From the small plates, we loved the tomato salad, which came with a sort of fig and olive tapenade, plus shavings of Corra Linn cheese. But the two standouts were the beef tartare with smoked chilli and crisp sourdough breadcrumbs, and the oxtail ragout broken rice – an absolute banger. It’s a good idea to get the butterhead lettuce with buttermilk ranch to go alongside that last dish too.
For dessert, there’s a brilliant bread treacle ice cream with puffed rice granola and blackberries.
Drink This
There’s a very good wine list that’s been put together by Nathalie Nelles (ex-Noble Fine Liquor) including organic and biodynamic bottles from European producers, with 20 available by the glass and more than 300 by the bottle. There are several available on tap too, including a great English rosé from Matt Gregory.
Why Go
There isn’t any shortage of brilliant wine bars in this part of London, but Goodbye Horses still manages to offer something very compelling. They’ve done a great job on the site, there’s a nice buzzy atmosphere, and Jack has smashed it on the food front. Definitely add this one to your hit list.
Key Information
Address | 21 Halliford Street, London N1 3HB
For more information | @goodbyehorsesldn
