It’s the debut London venture from Ukrainian restaurateurs Alex Cooper and Anna Andriienko
Tatar Bunar, open on the old Brindisa site on Curtain Road, is a real love letter to Ukraine. Anna is running the place while Alex remains in Ukraine, where he has been supporting the community during the conflict by providing meals for soldiers and turning his restaurants into food distribution points for those in need.
Inspired by Alex’s hometown of Tatarbunary in southern Ukraine, the interiors celebrate Ukrainian craftsmen and makers, with reclaimed wood from the Carpathian region and Bulgarian stone from Bessarabia throughout the space. There are some beautiful woven textiles hanging on the walls, there’s an olive tree right by the entrance, and all the ceramics have been handmade by Svetlana Sholomitska during the blackouts in Kyiv. It really does feel transportive.
Eat This
The kitchen, led by head chef Kate Tkachuk, showcases produce from the Bessarabia region and traditional recipes, reinterpreted for a restaurant setting.
Start with the onion bread and ribbons of buttery lardo, and the pickled tomatoes, tangy but still sweet cherry tomatoes with a slick of yoghurt underneath. The tartare is also excellent; here it’s made with a mix of beef and lamb and the meat is lightly grilled, which adds a real smoky note to the dish.
There are three types of varenyk (Ukrainian dumplings) on the menu – meat, cabbage and fried potato & mushroom – served with a smoked sour cream and pickled tomato sauce. They’ve been sized up so you get two big ones per portion, so unless you’re in a group you’ll probably want to just pick one. We reckon go for the meat or the cabbage ones and then get your potato fix with the latkes, which come with mushrooms, some crispy greens and more sour cream.
The grill dishes are Ukrainian-style shashliks, so skewers of meat on grapevine twigs. They’re done well – the chicken one we had was well charred but still juicy – but, as all the dishes are quite large, we’d say focus more on the starters and middle plates as that’s where the really interesting dishes are.
There are only two options for dessert; the Tatar Bunar crepes, which sounded pretty traditional, and the crème brûlée varenyk, an inventive mash-up pud. It’s made of two small dumplings stuffed with cottage cheese, covered in custard and brûléed, with sour cream and redcurrants balancing out the sweetness.
Drink This
There’s a concise, all-Ukrainian wine list, so if you’re unfamiliar with wines from the region, ask for recs – we enjoyed the dry white Artania from Beykush on the Black Sea. There’s also a selection of vodkas on offer, and whether you’re drinking or not, it’s worth trying the cherry kompot, a delish traditional Ukrainian fruit juice.
Why Go
Tatar Bunar offers a great introduction to Ukrainian food, and though the dishes have been elevated, they still feel authentic. The place looks stunning too, and if you’re anything like us, you’ll be enviously eyeing up those water jugs.
Key Information
Address | 152 Curtain Road, London, EC2A 3AT
For more information | @tatarbunar.london
